Fish and Chips are arguably the UK’s greatest cultural contribution to the world! Don’t listen to those who tell you that Afternoon Tea is the number one of British institutions – more than 225 million portions of Fish and Chips are sold in the UK each year, so it’s safe to say that the British love them.

Although this great institution is today popular worldwide, with variations found in the USA, Canada, even Pakistan one friend reported, its birthplace is London is the 19th century. Prior to the 1860′s, they existed as separate entity oddly enough, the English author Charles Dickens refers to a “friend fish warehouse” in his novel Oliver Twist. Meanwhile in the North of England, fried potato shops were spring up everywhere. Then one man had the brilliant idea of combing the two; business savvy Joseph Malin opened the first recorded Fish and Chips Shop in 1860. Today’s patrons would undoubtedly be shocked (or perhaps impressed) at the extremely basic facilities. Typically, a shop would have a large cauldron of cooking – fat, heated by a coal fire.

The formula is simplicity itself – fresh fish, arriving daily from the UK’s ports, cooked in batter combined with deep fried potatoes and hopefully a cup of tea. The fish would usually be either Haddock or Cod but today many different varieties can be used – Plaice, Pollock and Coley are all popular. Customers would stand in the shop, enjoy their food complain about the weather. Quintessentially British.

The first proper fish restaurants were opened by Samuel Isaacs, who started a thriving restaurant business in the latter half of the 19th century. He opened his first restaurant in 1896, where customers got bread and butter and tea in addition to their meal. By the standards of the time they were considered quite plush with china, table cloths and a friendly waitress. They expanded over the years into British seaside towns and the menus grew to include meat dishes. Vegetarians were less well catered for, we hope you like chips!

In the 1980s and 1990s, this great British institution has suffered slightly from the surfeit and popularity of Chinese and Indian takeaways; every British city, town and village has at least two or three. There has been a resurrection, however, in recent years, especially in London, which has huge variety of establishes, some traditional and some up-market. When you visit London, you have to try it at least once; we know you’ll be hooked for life. Not everyone does it right though, so we have prepared below a list of the Best Fish and Chips in London.

Enjoy!

Nautilus Fish
27-29 Fortune Green Road, London (West Hamstead) 020 7435 2532

Dining at this establishment is like sitting at your Aunty’s living room but they flock from far and wide to sample “some of the best fish and chips in the world” This West Hampstead stalwart is one of the oldest chippies in London and serves massive portion of delicious fresh fish and chips. Simple perfection.

Geales Fish Restaurant
2 Farmer Street, London (Notting Hill Gate) 020 7727 7528
www.geales.com

First opened in 1939, This Notting Hill institution caters to the well heeled crowd with its stylish interior of black and white check tablecloths and high-backed chairs, they even have an extensive wine list! They come for the food ultimately, and it does not disappoint. Try the ‘seaside pick’n'mix’ to sample a range of tangy, crunchy, beer-battered fish (pollack, cod, haddock, sole thank you sir!)

The Rock & Sole Plaice
45-47 Endell St, London (Covent Garden) 020 7836 3785

Another London institution, and right in the heart of the West End so expect a few tourists. The Rock and Sole remains true to its origins, however, as one of London’s oldest and most respected Chippies. The décor has remained pretty much unchanged over the last few decades, try and grab one of the outdoor tables in summer. Battered Haddock, Chips and a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Heaven.

Sweetings
39 Queen Victoria Street, London (Mansion House) 020 7248 3062

Be prepared to step into the past at this never changing, City seafooder thats being going since 1889. They offer a fantastic value lunch menu (this is a lunch only venue) of delicious, fresh fish dishes. There is nothing remotely trendy about the place, which only adds to its appeal. Fusion lovers should look elsewhere!

Livebait
21 Wellington Street, London (Covent Garden) 020 7836 7161
www.livebaitrestaurants.co.uk

This is as close as you’ll get to the seaside without actually leaving London. This chain of five establishments is heaven for fish lovers, the friendly and helpful staff will guide you through a menu of beautiful, quality dishes, some with a modern twist. One of our favourites, Livebait is always packed.

Two Brothers Fish
297-303 Regent’s Park Road, London (Finchley Central) 020 8346 0469
www.twobrothers.co.uk

This ‘out of the way’ venue is definitely worth a detour for the outstanding quality of the fish and chips. Visitors often order a second helping of the fantastic, down to earth food. One customer exclaimed, “its the freshest ever”. Enough said.

Rudland Stubbs
35-37 Green Hill Rents, Cowcross Street, London (Farringdon) 020 7253 0148

Close your eyes and you’l believe your on the coast at this relaxed, traditional restaurant on the edge of Smithfield market. Not from the seagulls or crashing waves but from fresh fish that’s as good as any found at the seaside.One of the best value in the capital.

Gordons Fish Bar
102 Farringdon Road,
London (Farringdon) 020 7837 3547

This unassuming venue been around for 150 years and its popularity has remained the same. People queue round the block for these traditional, no frills or fuss Fish and Chips. Get there early to secure a table!

Fish Bone
82 Cleveland Street, London (Warren Street) 020 7580 2672

Another old stalwart of the London Fish and Chip scene. Expect fresh fish cooked to order and fried in, unusually, groundnut oil. The choice for the health conscious, take your pipping hot fish to nearby Regent’s park and enjoy.

Laughing Halibut
38 Strutton Ground, London (St. James Park) 020 7799 2844

A perennial favourite for local office workers at lunch time, this is as untrousity as you can get in London. Always busy, always good, reliable fayre, comes highly recommended if your in the vicinity.

A remarkable amount of knowledge has been shared, debated and contradicted on the subject of food and wine pairing, useful albeit loosely defined principles and tips that can help us enjoy both the food and the wine, rather than letting one suppress the other. Open an expensive bottle of St-Emilion, eat a flaming hot Mexican chilli and you’ll see what we mean. If you manage to taste the wine at all then congratulation to you, you have a remarkable palate!

It is one of the most interesting questions that crops up during food and wine matching discussions – are some foods totally unsuitable for pairing with any wine? Very peppery, spicy food like the chilli mentioned above tends to sensitive the lining of the mouth; we find that all you want is ice-cold beer to sooth the pleasurable sensation of having our mouth set on fire. Cheese, believe it or not, is another difficult candidate – the idea that wine and cheese are perfect partners is not backed up by experience. Fine red Bordeaux is often thrust on the table and immediately slaughtered by a selection of strong cheeses that only sweet or sharp white wines usually survive. As for pairing chocolate and dessert wine, isn’t the rich, unctuous chocolate soufflé enough sweetness of
anyone?

At this point, we could be forgiven for concluding that with some foods it is better leaving wine out of the picture all together. Well, it would be fair to say that extremes of flavour in food tend to limit your choices in terms of what wine pairings might work well – if at all. Take Asparagus for example, its slightly bitter flavours are very difficult to match with any wine, until you add butter to the asparagus and oaky Australian Semillon in your glass for gastronomic heaven. The smoky, citrusy Semillon echoes the flavour well but only if you are dealing with a very ripe bottle. Nothing else seems to work – at least not in our experience so alternatives are more than welcome!

So when faced with a troublesome dish, especially ones laced with spice and chilli, it would do not harm to consider the following tips:

1. Use the sauce, Luke. When pairing wine with food, consider that the sauce is a much more important factor than the meat itself. Tomato based pasta dishes will obliterate fine red and white wines; a ripe, young Zinfandel or Grenache is your best bet.
2. Acidity is your friend, not foe. Wines that tend to have a bracing ‘cut’ of acidity such as the Muscadets and Sauvignon Blancs of this world cut across the richness of food nicely,
   you are left with a very refreshed palate indeed. Deep fried foods and creamy sauces in particular seem to cry out for quite acidity whites or sparkling wines. Cava and fish and chips works wonderfully.
3. The table can only handle so many prima donnas. When opening a particularity fine bottle of wine, certainly wines with age, what is needed is relatively simple food. If the wine is the
   priority then let it take centre stage. Old red Bordeaux for example is usually light, delicate and perfumed; spicy rich food could easily kill your bottle of Chateau Margaux.

The golden rule when pairing intensely flavoured foods with wine, is to match the weight of the wine to the strongest flavour in the food. Does the Lamb have a rich sauce? If so, dispense with that bottle of old Rioja you have been saving and open a young, fruity Tempranillo instead. The riper the better! We encourage you to experiment but would also like to suggest an assortment of recommendations for some of the tougher food choices.

Bonne chance!

Asparagus
A bit of a nightmare flavour for wine, being quite bitter. Australian ripe Semillon seems to work well, especially if the asparagus is coated in butter.

Chilli con carne
The riper the better! Zinfandel or Argentinian Malbec.

Chocolate based desserts
Only powerful flavours can compete with the onslaught of Chocolate. Often combining sweet wines with chocolate is overkill. Australian black muscat or even better tawny port seems the best match
to Chocolate.

Cream-based sauces
A medium bodied Chardonnay works best. Try Rully.

Eggs
Another difficult pairing partner as eggs clash with most wines. Pinot Blanc can work quite well, not to mention sparkling wine and scrambled eggs.

Gazpacho
Tomatoes and wine are rarely a marriage made in heaven. Fino sherry seems to suit Gazpacho, and thats about it.

Indian cuisine
A real challenge for the wine lover! Many people advocate leaving wine out of the picture altogether. We find that off-dry Chenin blanc works quite well, the sweetness neutralises the spice somewhat. A refreshing white is the key but never bone dry. Cava also seems to cope with Indian food.

Mackerel
An extremely oily fish that requires a very sharp white: Loire Sauvignon Blanc or Vinho verde works wonderfully as does white Rioja. Also check out Seafood and Wine Pairing

Smoked foods
Acidity is your friend, South African Sauvignon Blanc or the Loire equivalent.

Sushi
A difficult one as hot wasabi kills wine flavours. Cava works best we find.

Gazpacho is a classic summer dish in Spain, light and refreshing. The key ingredient in Gazpacho is the tomato, brought to Spain from the “New World” in the 16th century, along with potatoes, peppers, corn and avocados. Gazpacho was for centuries considered to be the typical Andalusian peasant dish. It wasn’t until the mid 20th century, when doctors recognized the health benefits of the Mediterranean Diet that the upper classes of Spanish society began to value this simple but fantastic Spanish dish. With the tourist boom of the 1960’s on the southern Costa del Sol, Gazpacho began to become well known internationally, and today it is considered to be one of the most typical “platos” in Spain. With the first warm days of summer, Gazpacho appears on restaurant menus all over the country. It is one of the most delicious and healthiest Mediterranean recipes and can be served as an appetizer or even on its own. This recipe has been contributed to Cellar Tastings by Javier Francisco Martin Galan, a Madrid based Fashion Designer and Culinary Enthusiast.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds Large Red, Ripe (and fragrant) Tomatoes
• 1 large Cucumber, peeled
• Half loaf day old French Baguette (bread crumbs also work)
• 1 large, Green Bell Pepper (Italian green peppers are also perfect)
• 1 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 6 Spring Onions
• 1 Clove Garlic
• 3 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Paprika (spicy or sweet)
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• 1 1/2 Quart Water

To Garnish (optional):

• Chopped avocado
• Diced Peppers

Preparation:

Chop up bread into small pieces and soak in 1 cup water. Dice all of the vegetables and place in large bowel. Add bread and then the olive oil, stir. Pour three tablespoons of white wine vinegar into the bowel, the paprika, ½ quart of water and salt to taste. Add all of the contents of the bowel along with one quart of water to the blender, and blend for a few seconds until you reach the desired thickness. For thicker Gazpacho use less water. Place the blended gazapacho back in the bowel and chill for at least one hour before serving (or add ice cubes). You can garnish the bright cold soup with avocado cubes and diced peppers.

Try this dish with: Marques de Riscal Sauvignon Blanc from Rueda

Seville is considered by many to be the “Tapas Capital of Spain”, and hence of the world! There are thought to be more than 3000 tapas bars, the highest concentration anywhere. What is on offer is an amazing range of food. There’s something to suit all tastes and it would be impossible to try to come up with a list of even a fraction of what’s available. But amongst other things you will be able to sample the finest ham, the freshest seafood, all manner of vegetable dishes, popular stews, cheese, olives.

El tapeo, the art of eating tapas, is a social occasion of which conversation forms as much an integral part as eating and drinking. A tapa and a drink are taken in one bar and then you pass on to another and so on until you are satiated. So you get to eat and drink well, solve the world’s problems and with all the walking burn off lots of calories!

Here are my recommended Top Five Tapas Bars in Seville:

El Rinconcillo

This is one of Seville’s oldest bars, having been founded in 1670. Stepping into the bar is like stepping back in history. It still preserves flagstone floors, wonderful tiling and it has a wonderful old wooden counter. The bar is famous for its traditional tapas and the high quality products from the Iberian pig. Try the espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas), albondigas (Spanish meatballs), bacalao con tomate (salt cod with tomato) or the sublime jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham). The prices of what you order will be chalked on the bar and when you ask for the bill the total will be calculated in a flash. No electronic devices here!

C/ Gerona, 40
41003 Seville, Spain
Tel: 954 223 183

Casablanca
This small bar is nearly always full. Not surprisingly, as it serves some of the best and most creative tapas in the city. Even if it’s a squeeze it’s well worth it. The only problem for non-Spanish speakers is that there is no list of tapas. What is on offer can change from one day to the next and may depend on what´s on offer in the market or what the chef feels like preparing. So when you ask ‘¿Qué hay hoy? (What’s there today) you’ll get a rapid fire reply of the day’s choices. This may include such delights as merluza con salsa de pimiento de piquillo (hake in piquillo pepper sauce), solomillo con salsa de mscatel (sirloin cooked in moscatel), láminas de berenjena rebozadas (strips of aubergine in batter). If language is a barrier, just point at whatever interests you that other people are eating!

Calle Zaragoza, 50
41001 Seville, Spain
Tel: 954 224 698

Paco Góngora

Three bull’s heads greet you as you enter this bar which was converted from a private house. Full of old photos and artifacts it has a definite homely feel. The bar specializes in fine fresh seafood. Try the puntillitas (baby squid), coquinas (small kind of clam) or boquerones (whitebate).

C/ Padre Marchena, 1
41001 Seville, Spain
Tel: 954 214 139

Casa Morales

This bar which dates from the 19th century is one of the few traditional bodegas that still remain in Seville. In the large back room you can still see the large tinajas or earthen wine containers that were used until recently. Among the tapas served are very good cheese and a large selection of montaditos which are like small toasted sandwiches.

C/ García de Vinuesa, 11
41001 Seville, Spain
Tel: 954 221 242

Bar Giralda

This bar occupies what was once the site of Moorish baths, with the columns and arches still being preserved. Even though the bar is very close to the Giralda after which it obviously takes its name, it is in no way a ‘tourist’ bar, although many tourists eat there. The list of tapas is immense with a recent count coming up with sixty-one! Included are calamares rellenos (stuffed squid), cola de toro (bull’s tail), agaucate con langostinos (avocado with king prawns), pastel de calabacín (courgette pie)

Mateos Gago 1
Barrio de Santa Cruz,
41019 Seville, Spain
Tel: 954 227 435

Abondigas - Spanish Meatballs

Spanish Meatballs are made with a blend of veal and pork, rather than 100% minced beef. They are smaller than Italian meatballs. Albondigas are typically served in Tapas bars all over Spain (in the classic clay dishes) and often as the main course of the “Menu del Dia”, particularly in the colder months. Albondigas are made with various sauces (the most typical is the white wine sauce, and there are almond based and tomato based sauces as well). They are usually served on their own (not with rice or pasta). They are delicious, and pair perfectly with the rich red wines from La Rioja or Ribera del Duero. This recipe for Spanish Meatballs (Avila style) has been contributed to Cellar Tastings by Javier Francisco Martin Galan, a Madrid based Fashion Designer and Culinary Enthusiast. This recipe has been passed down in his family for generations.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds of Mince (¾ Beef or veal with ¼ Pork)
• 1 cup Whole Milk
• 2 Eggs
• 4 Cloves Garlic
• 3 ½ ounces Breadcrumbs
• Flour to coat meatballs
• Parsley
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• Olive Oil for frying

Sauce:

• 1 Large Onion
• 1 cup White Wine
• Olive Oil for frying

The Ten Weirdest Wine Grape Varieties

Grape Varieties continue to play an important role in the language of wine, which is why ‘varietal labelling’ has become so common. In fact, we could even say that the shift of emphasis from place to grape has been the biggest factor in making wine accessible to the curious and uninitiated. Today, far fewer wine drinkers know the names Volnay or Meursault for example, than know the names of the grape varieties from which these wonderful wines are made: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is much easier to get to grips with a couple of well-known grape names than to know all the possible regions that can be found on wine labels – after all, France’s appellation system was designed by Medieval theologians!

Ten Weirdest Grapes

Most of us are well acquainted with the ‘celebrities’ of wine, the Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignon Blancs of this world. A worthy aspect, however, of anyone’s wine  education would be looking further afield to the varieties that stay out of the limelight. So spare a thought for some of the less well-known players as its worth stepping away from Cabernet Sauvignon for a second to give these guys a chance – we promise they don’t bite:

Assyrtiko

One of Greece’s hidden secrets; the country has a number of indigenous varieties of enormous appeal, not least because of their natural freshness, balance and poise. Assyrtiko is grown on the idyllic island of Santorini, producing delightful lime-scented wine, noticeably marked by peppery spiciness from the island’s volcanic soil.

Brachetto

Brachetto is probably Italy’s least well known grape, grown in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. It produces an aromatic light red wine that is unusually low in alcohol, often no more than 5.5%. It is used to make spumante (sparkling) style wines. Imagine a light, pink Moscato and you are nearly there. Very popular with the ‘I’m driving’ crowd.

Caberlot

The rarest grape variety in the world, there are only 2 hectares of this variety grown today, a genetic cross between Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is truly unique as you can only find this grape in one estate in Tuscany, and thus far they have not been willing to share their prize with anyone. The estate’s owner, Bettina Rogosky explains the varietal was first identified in the early 1960s in an old abandoned vineyard near Padua. Her husband, Woolf Rogosky, acquired and named the varietal `Caberlot´, and set out to produce a great wine with a truly unique character. One of the wine world’s greatest secrets.

Furmint

Furmint is the main component of Hungary’s Tokaji wine. Named after the town of Tokaji at the foot of the Tatra mountains in Hungary, it is the oldest known variety to be subjected to the botrytis noble rot, dating from the mid 1600s. Long before producers in Sauternes were subjecting their wines to botrytis, Furmint was producing gorgeous wines with marmalade, caramel and raisin typically on the palate, always balanced by
lovely acidity. A noble grape indeed.

Mavrud

A Balkan grape which is rarely seen today, Mavrud comes from the area of Assnovgrad in Bulgaria. It is notoriously difficult to grow and ripen, in bad years producing rustic wines from unripe fruit. In better years it can offer robust, potent wines, with a dry, peppery Grenache style scent and flavour. One to watch!

Ortega

A variety that is very sparely planted in Germany has found a home in the vineyards of Kent, England. It seems to thrive in the English cool climate conditions, producing white wines with keen acidity and gooseberry, floral notes. It was in danger of dying out all together but Biddenden Vineyards in Kent planted the variety a few years ago with encouraging results. Could be the next big thing for the British wine industry.

Rotgipfler

Rotgipfler must surely win the prize for least seen varietal wine. This white grape is indigenous to the Thermenregion in Austria, and is sometimes compared to Viognier, although its parents are Traminer and Roter Veltliner. It produces wines with a thick, oily texture with a pleasant floral, peppery element, not dissimilar to an Alsace Gewürztraminer. A grape variety for those who don’t like acidity in whites, here it is
barely noticeable!

Txakoli

The pride and joy of the Basque country in Northern Spain, this variety is the ideal aperitif for those who are driving. It produces very dry white wine with a bracing acidity and low alcohol content, a perfect match to the Basque tapas or Pinxtos found throughout bars in the region. It is also found in tiny quantities in Chile, although its spiritual home will always be the Basque country.

Tyrian

One of the newest grape varieties to come into existence, this variety was genetically ‘bred’ by an Australian company. Currently one winery – McWilliams Wines in Australia – grows the variety; it is a hybrid of Cabernet Sauvignon and the Spanish variety Sumoll. Tyrian ripens extremely late offering notes of plum and violets, with a deep colour and bright hue.

Welshriesling

No, this is no relation to the Celtic traditions of South Wales in the UK. This variety also has nothing to do with Germany’s Riesling grape, funnily enough. It is mainly planted in Austria, producing light, floral, delicate wines with a forceful acidity, even in warmer climates. Rarely seen outside the FatherLand, this variety can occasionally dazzle us with capacity to make intense, complex dessert wines when subjected to botrytis.

Grappa is a traditional Italian spirit made from the pressed seeds and skins of grapes after the must (grape juice) is used in winemaking. Grappa is made all over Italy, from Tuscany to Naples, to the Veneto. The process is simple: the leftover grapeseeds and skins are fermented without added sugar or alcohol, as the skins are naturally high in residual sugars. After fermentation the Grappa is distilled and it becomes adry, intense, and complex liquor. Grappa is very strong, between 80 and 90 proof. It is served as a digestive after heavy meals. It functions perfectly as a digestive or “Digestivo”, at the end of the meal.

Glass of Grappa

According to Italian liquor laws the grape pomace fermentation can be done directly with water vapor or by simply adding water to the mixture. The laws also allow a certain percentage of lees (dead yeasts) to be used. The techniques have expanded and quality has become a large concern. Techniques have been added, by leaving a higher content of moisture to keep some of particular grape flavors resembling brandy or a fruit based liquor and create higher quality stock. Italian laws require six months of aging. Through these new techniques the varieties of grappa have expounded. Grappa’s popularity has grown in the recent years but was originally known as the poor man’s drink. Now it revered as a quality after dinner drink, such as whisky or cognac. As a digestive after meals, Grappa is meant to be sipped. In Italy however, it can also be mixed with coffee, or even as a cooking ingredient.

Grappa comes in flavored varieties, which are made by adding natural herbal extracts and fruits that create a surprising array of flavors from cinnamon to strawberry. Distilleria Marzadro is a good example of flavored grappa with Blueberry-Peach, Banana-Fig or Raspberry-Liquorice flavored grappas. Other well known Grappa Producers are Nardini, Brunello, Mangillo and Stock. As the history of grappa and its origins are hotly debated, it is known as a creative use for the leftover remnants from wine making, and due to its high alcohol levels it became an escape from the hard work and cold temperatures. It has become a product of quality and is no longer given this stigma of the common man’s drink. Through the new production technologies and the competition that has been created, Grappa has become quite trendy and stylish, in regards to the many flavors and very creative packaging.

Ceretto Grappa

There are many different kinds of “Grappa Like” liquors, made from the remains of grapes after they have been pressed. Anise flavored liquors include Pastis (the typical digestif in Marseille), Ouzo (the Greek equivalent), and Arak (common in the Middle East). Annisette is a French liquor flavored with anise seeds. It is lower in alcohol than the others but has an interesting sweet flavor. Arak is quite a harsh liquor, flavored with various herbs and spices. It is very strong and served as an aperitif. Herbsaint is made in New Orleans and was intended as a substitute for absinthe. It contains a narcotic and is outlawed for US consumption. Ouzo is a very potent Greek liquor, that is usually mixed with water turning it a cream color. Pastis is a French liquor, also served with water. It is one of the highest in alcohol levels and has licorice flavors. Sambuca is a semi-dry traditional Italian liquor that is flavored with anise, berries, herbs, and spices and usually drunk with three coffee beans floating on top. (which are set alight to release the essential oils of the coffee bean into the spirit, creating a delicious falvor).

Some Top Grappa Producers,

Nardini
Poli
Nonino
Ceretto
Andrea Da Ponte

Barolo can truly claim to be the King of Italian wines; produced in the Northern Italian region of Piedmont from that most individual of grapes – Nebbiolo. The wine offers a unique structure of mouth filling acidity and tannin with an aroma and flavour of remarkable delicacy. It is the ultimate expression of the Nebbiolo grape and most definitely, a connoisseur wine.

Barolo's picturesque vineyards

At the heart of the Piedmont region are the Langhe hills. East of the Tanaro River and south west of the town of Alba we find the small appellation of Barolo. With just over 1,500 hectares under vine, and in a similar way to the Burgundy region, it is common for growers to cultivate one or two hectares of the many prized Barolo crus. Barolo is, for the most part spread over five villages: La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falleto, Monforte d’Alaba and Serralunga.

The hamlet of Barolo

Historically, Barolo was fermented as a sweet wine, a product which bore little relation to the wines we have today. This was due to necessity more than desire – in the early 19th century the cold autumnal temperatures would halt the fermentation in the winery, leaving some residual sugar in the wine. Quite different to the bells and whistle approach we have today, where every nuance, including the temperature of fermentation, is computer-controlled.

Botte vat used to ferment the Barolo wine

The shift in focus to producing dry wine came in the mid 19th century, when the French Oenologist Louis Oudart came to Barolo to help improve the vinification techniques of the local growers. His expertise and guidance on proper cellar management enabled Barolo winemakers to ferment the Nebbiolo grape completely dry, thus heralding the dawn of what we know today as Barolo. This new, dry and elegant style of wine rapidly found favour with Italian nobility, hence Barolo’s description as ‘the King of Wines’.

Each of the Barolo’s communes enjoys a distinct terroir that ensures that the Barolo lover can enjoy a plethora of different wine styles, all produced from one (very late ripening) grape variety! Monforte and Serralunga are said to have older Helvetian soils, believed to nurture wines with strength and concentration. In contrast, La Morra’s soils are a mix of chalk and marl; here the wines have a profound scent but less power and structure than its neighbour.

Old bottles of Barolo wine

Terroir, and a sense of place is very much a prime concern for the growers in Barolo, although this was not always so. For most of the 20th century producers would tend to blend the grapes from their different vineyard sites to make generic Barolo – wines of high quality but arguably lacking in real individuality. A small revolution, led by Piedmont’s most respected winemaker Angelo Gaja occurred in the 90s, with growers bottling their own wines and showing a greater interest in their ‘cru’. Today there is a heightened awareness of the subtle differences of style and quality between individual vineyard sites, and of Nebbiolo’s ability to transmit them. These sites are often termed cru’s, although unlike Burgundy there is no official ranking of the vineyards in the region.

Young Nebbiolo grapes

So what can the wine lover expect when enjoying a glass of Barolo? Typically the wines show strength, a brisk acidity and an abundance of tannin. Nebbiolo usually gives wines a moderate colour that proceeds to develop a lovely red brick hue after 4-5 years. A young Barolo should have a complex aroma of cherries, plums, and violets. As the wine ages and the tannins soften, the taster can expect tar, truffles, game, and farmyard. Good Barolo tends to effortlessly merge power with elegance, it will have a force but also transparency of flavour reminiscent of a good Burgundy…Chambertin perhaps?

As with so many wine regions today, a good natured battle is being fought in Barolo between winemakers who favour tradition and those who want to produce a more modern style of Barolo with softer, more accessible tannins and greater concentration. There are a range of different approaches to vinification and wine-making in this fascinating region, where the important differences revolve around the length of maceration and crucially, the portion of new oak used (if any).

Traditionally Nebbiolo was macerated for a long period on the skins in Barolo, and then aged in old Slavonian oak or chestnut tuns. The wines would require many years for those formidable tannins to soften, often over ten years. The modern approach advocates a shorter maceration and sometimes a lavish use of new oak, leading to richer, fuller and softer wines. Barolo lovers need not worry, however, as at present there is a sufficient range of style to please everyone!

Whichever style you fall in love with, we guarantee that Barolo will not leave you disappointed. The area is stunningly beautiful, with vineyard slopes and rolling hills coupled with delightful villages dotted around the region. Quality in Barolo has never been higher: innovation has polished many old fashioned wines, preserving but also enhancing their character. Simply put, there has never been a better time to drink a glass of Barolo.

Leading Barolo producers:

• Ascheri
• Brovia
• Ceretto
• DaMilano
• Massolino
• Mauro Molino
• Monti
• Andrea Oberto
• Parusso
• Prunotto
• Sandrone
• Mauro Veglio
• Vietti
• Roberto Voerzio

The delights of Sea Bass and Chablis and more….

For a long time the accepted wisdom was that white wine goes with fish and red wine with meat. That was as complex as food matching needed to be. It was a useful rule of thumb when fish came poached or simply grilled, and red wine meant wines from the Bordeaux and Burgundy region of France; now that we eat food and drink wine from all over the world it’s an unduly restrictive approach. Today, the matching of food and wine is an extremely flexible affair – it’s fun to experiment and try unusual flavour combinations since, after all, most of us know what we like to eat and drink!

Seafood and Wine Pairing

So are there any rules to matching fish with wine? God no! However, there are most definitely sensible guidelines that can enhance your enjoyment. The best guideline to follow is to match the intensity of flavors in the food with the weight and personality of the wine. This assumes that we want to taste both the wine and the food, and that we don’t want one to overpower the other. Serving fine white Burgundy with Lamb Madras never works, believe us we have tried. It is usually a good bet to match delicate flavours with delicate wines and strong wines with food that has plenty of personality – there is nothing like Syrah and Beef Casserole for gastronomic heaven.

Fish, with its usually soft and delicate flavours provide the perfect foil to a variety of white, and yes, red wines! Matching fish with wine is a joy, not least because of the adaptability and ease with which you can match your Sea Bass Fillet to a range of wines. In general terms, we find that light/medium bodied unoaked white wines with a lively acidity are the best companions for a variety of fish dishes. Chablis, Riesling and Spanish Albarino are 3 great examples. These wines have pure, direct flavours and a vivid acidity that can be eased and complimented by the salt in fish. Pinot Noir works extremely well with Salmon and Red Mullet, whilst try meaty fish like Monkfish with oaked creamy Chardonnay from California or Australia.

Seafood and Wine Pairing

Ultimately though, when pairing wines with fish, you don’t need to drill down to the level of the fine nuances to make an informed choice. All you need are a few simple pairing rules. Below are a few of our recommendations, but please feel free to experiment.

Bon Appétit!

Anchovies

A salty fish that needs an acidic, robust white like Muscadet or young simple Chablis. Brilliant with Fino sherry.

White Fish with a Beurre Blanc sauce

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend will match and cut through the sauce, Chablis Premier Cru for a real treat

Crab

Crab salad and Riesling is a match made in heaven

Fish with tomato based sauces

Tomato-based sauces can devastate fine wines, so a sharp, dry wine is needed. Often a red works well, try Zinfandel or Barbera D’ Alba from Piedmont

Fish with cream-based sauces

A medium bodied Chardonnay works best. Try Rully.

Haddock

A perfect companion to rich dry whites, Meursault, New Zealand Chardonnay and the like

Hake

Open a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for culinary bliss

Halibut

Works well with any rich dry white, white burgundy is the most obvious place to start

Lobster

Vintage Champagne for a real treat. White Bordeaux and Riesling also works very well

Mackerel

An extremely oily fish that requires a very sharp white: Loire Sauvignon Blanc or Vinho verde works wonderfully as does white Rioja.

Monkfish

A meaty, full flavoured fish that often works better with red wines. We love roasted Monkfish with Pinot Noir (or Merlot is a great combination too!)

Mullet

Perfect with red Burgundy

Prawns

Fine dry white again, New Zealand Chardonnay or Champagne seems to work best

Salmon

If the salmon has been grilled then look to Burgundy, red and white. Roast Salmon is wonderful with Grand Cru Chablis. Smoked Salmon on the other hand works better with aromatic, acidic whites. Fino Sherry, Riesling or Pinot gris work very well indeed.

Sea Bass

Divine with Chablis, Riesling is also a fair bet

Shellfish

Unoaked Chadonnay is the way to go. Give Pinot Blanc a try

Dover Sole

Only the finest white Burgundy will suffice

Sushi

A difficult one as hot wasabi kills wine flavours. Cava works best we find

Tuna

Medium bodied red with a fruity character, Merlot is our choice

Turbot

Chardonnay or even better, try with white Rhone. Condrieu works surprisingly well

India is a country with an ancient wine-making tradition and a new and emerging wine producing industry. Vineyards are multiplying, quality is rising and urban Indians are slowly but surely turning to wine over the traditional beverage, Whiskey. However, the first vines were planted long before the 20th Century. As incredible as it sounds, wine-making has existed throughout most of India’s history and was encouraged by the Portuguese and subsequent British colonisers. Yet, India must be the country people least associate with wine which makes its discovery and exploration all the more exciting for the wine lover.

The country’s viticultural history begins with its Persian conquerors, who brought vines to India in about 300 BC. Throughout India’s history, wine was held in high esteem as the drink of the nobility. When the Portuguese arrived in Goa in the South West of India they planted vines to satisfy their demand; the British followed suit and greatly contributed towards the growth of Indian wine production. Then, similar to the outbreak in Europe, the phylloxera louse arrived towards the end of the 19th Century and devastated many of India’s vineyards.

Another great setback for Indian wine production was sadly yet to come: following the country’s independence from the British Empire the ruling government set about to pursue the total prohibition of alcohol. Several of India’s states banned the production and consumption of alcohol and the government encourage wine growers to convert to table grape production. India’s wine growing industry had all but disappeared until one man decided that it was time for a revitalisation.

Sham Chougule is the man who we should credit with kick-starting wine production in India. He set up the first wine company in 1982 by the name of INDAGE. This was for many years India’s finest domestic producer, exporting Omar Khayyam, India’s first sparkling wine. Collaboration with the French Champagne house Piper Heidsieck only served to enhance the quality and reputation around the world. As urban Indians, largely due to the I’T book, started to travel they developed and brought back a taste for wine; the middle classes were starting to wake up to the pleasures of Champagne and Sauvignon Blanc! The question now was, who would satisfy their demand?

At first glance India is totally unsuitable for viticulture, the summer growing season is extremely hot, humid and prone to monsoons. The best vineyard sites in India benefit from higher altitudes along slopes and hillsides, essential for moderating the summer heat. The wine growing area is surprisingly diverse, as vineyards in India range from the northwestern state of Punjab down to the southern state of Tamil Nadu. Wine growing activity currently exists in 7 of the country’s states with Maharashtra being by far the most important. Only 3 hours drive from Mumbai is where India’s wine industry really started to flourish. Welcome to Nashik.

Nashik has become synonymous with India wine, thanks by no small part to the effort of Rajeev Samant, CEO of Sula Vineyards. The region – known today as the wine capital of India – is situated in the northwest of Maharashtra, 180 KM from Mumbai on the western edge of the volcanic formation, the Deccan Plateau. The black soils of Nashik and moderate climate with noticeable cool nights in spring meant that the region had long been colonised for table grape growing, a major industry in Maharashtra. One man in the late 90s saw the potential in Nashik for quality wine growing – Rajeev Samant.

Sula planted their first vineyards in 1997, after Rajeev inherited some land from his father which he originally used to grow mangoes and others crops. The first harvest was in 1999 and they released the first bottles of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc in 2000. They pioneered both these varietals in India, and on release they were widely acclaimed as the best white wines to be produced in India up to that moment. 15 years later and a small vineyard holding has become 1,200 acres, 350,000 cases and still counting!

In the space of 12 years, Sula has become the foremost symbol of Indian wine, not just a wine brand but an icon for the entire Indian wine industry. They are a leader in every respect, not least in wine tourism. Sula has a tasting room and terrace bar, two restaurants, a concert amphitheatre and spa hotel – the first of its kind in India! Today, there are over 40 wineries in Nashik. If the government continues to support viticulture with generous subsidies and can make it easier for winegrowers to distribute and export their wine, there is no reason why we won’t see another 40 in 10 years time.

Other promising wineries in Nashik include Vintage Wines whose Cabernet Sauvignon has won critical acclaim and Renaissance Wines. However, we must not omit an extremely important player outside Nashik in the Indian wine scene – Grover. Founded in 1988 by Kanwal Grover and French wine-maker George Vasselle. They set out to bring Bordeaux to Bangalore — to make French-style wines in India using only French varieties. A pioneering effort that continues to benefit from the advice of Michel Rolland.

India is a fascinating country that offers so much to the visitor, not least a staggering array of cultural and historical riches. A fledging wine industry is just the latest marvel to emanate from this dynamic and resourceful continent. Whilst wine consumption amongst the general population is overall very low, crucially it is growing and with government support undoubtedly the number of wineries in India will multiply in the coming decades. Chile, Argentina and Australia are all countries with a proud history of producing wine – welcome to India, the real New World.

Leading Indian wine producers

• Grover,
• Chateau Indage,
• Mandala Valley,
• Renaissance Wines,
• Sula Vineyards,
• Vintage Wines