Spanish Cheese
Spanish cheese is very rich in diversity, with many intense aromas and intriguing textures. For centuries cheesemaking has been an artisan craft and tradition. Spain has so so many unique microclimates and quality methods of production that it has created its own Denomination of Origin for its Cheeses! This DO, similar to Spanish wines, gives the customer a guarantee of quality and authenticity. Many cheese styles grace the menus in Spain in main dishes and as Tapas, small snacks enjoyed with drinks in the evening.
Manchego Cheese
Manchego, made with 100% ewes milk, is an aged cheese. It can be found semi-cured to cured. It is made primarily in La Mancha. It is one of the most well known of Spain. Manchego is characterized by its shape by its traditional molds. It is shaped in a circle but has zig-zag patterns across the sides of the cheese and a wheat-ear pattern of the top and bottom. Don Quixote’s cheese in Cervantes book, Manchego comes in two types. The farmhouse type is made with unpasteurized sheep’s milk, and the industrial type made with pasteurized milk. It has been protected by its DOC appellation (Denomination of Origin and Quality) since 1984. The DOC requires it to be made from milk from a strictly Manchega sheep breed, as well as a minimum of 60 days aging. Its flavor and crumbly texture make it the perfect partner for wine and bread. Manchego cheese is sliced and served up as a Tapa in virtually every bar in Madrid, Spain’s vibrant and charming capital.Zamorano Cheese
Zamorano is made from Ewe’s milk in the region of Zamora in Castilla y Leon (near the wine producing region of Toro, about 3 hours northwest of Madrid). It is cured with varying levels of aging. This cheese’s super high quality results from the breeds of sheep, the climate, and the long cellar aging process. Zamorano cheeses are aged in the same cellars as the proprietors’ wines. They are encouraged to develop mold on the rind. They are turned often, and rubbed with olive oil, giving the cheese a dark color. Zamorano is primarily eaten on its own or with a full-bodied wine or with crackers or olives. It can also be melted into an omelet and is delicious when paired with Sherry.Idiazabal Cheese
This smokey cheese originated in the Goierri valley of the Basque region of Spain. It is aged from semi-cured to cured and solely made from raw sheep’s milk. Idiazabal is a robust and sharp cheese. It is made to be ripened for a long time, and can last in your fridge for months. Idiazabal is made both by small production farmers and also larger industrial firms. It has a high level of acidity and low levels of fat. It is heavy with natural young lamb’s stomach lining, giving it a spicy taste. It has a dry crumbly texture. Idiazabal received its DOC in 1987. Only unpasteurized milk from Latxa breed of sheep can be used. The DO also ensures that the milk be curdled with natural lamb curd, and permits external smoking of cheese. Idiazabal cheeses are pressed aged fro a medium to long duration and are generally unsmoked. Idiazabal is matched with barbequed or grilled meats, melted on hamburgers, eaten in salads. It can always be served with bread or crackers. It is best matched with a full-bodied wine.Majorero Cheese
This tasty cheese is made in Fuerteventura, one of the southeastern, Canary islands. It is made with goat’s milk and is aged from aired to very cured. It can be found in three different presentations. It can be rind rubbed with oil, rubbed with pimento of with “gofio” (roasted cornmeal). This versatile cheese has a fine creamy texture. It fits well over pasta, potatoes, rice, or vegetable dishes. It is traditionally served as an appetizer with olive oil and rosemary. Local white wines made from the Malvasia grape, such as the popular brand of “El Grifo” suit it perfectly.
Mahon Cheese
Mahon is located in Menorca, Spain. Mahon is served fresh to very cured. It is made from raw or pasteurized cow’s milk. Mahon is located in the northern most part of the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean. There are many varieties of this cheese, but they are all made for long-term aging and storage. The rind is rubbed with either oil or paprika, and the cheese itself is compact and crumbly. Today the Menorca cows have superior health and genetic selection. It is one of the largest milk-producing areas in Spain. Mahon was given its DO in 1985. Mahon is one of the most versatile cheeses in Spain. Its creamy texture makes it an ideal topping for pasta, potato, rice, and vegetable dishes. It is traditionally served as an appetizer with olive oil and rosemary.Tetilla Cheese
This cheese is made from cows milk. It is aged from soft to semi-cured. This is the resident Galician dessert. It is shaped like a breast (complete with nipple at the top) which is how it received its name (“Tetilla” means “little tit”). It has a yellow straw colored rind with a soft paste, thick and smooth character. It has a clean smooth flavor and can be eaten at any time of day. It can also be used in cooking as it melts easily with heat. It is the most popular traditional cheese in Galicia. Tetilla is a favorite of Spanish children, with crackers or fruit. It melts to make superior sandwiches and can also just be spread cold over bread. Delicious with white Albariño wines from Rias Baixas.Cabrales Cheese
This cheese is made from whole unpasteurized cow, goat, and sheep’s milk depending on the season. It is aged and cured. Its origins are in Asturias. Cabrales is blue cheese and has been said by food journalists to be a ‘complex masterpiece, one of the worlds most striking cheeses.’ Cabrales cheese is the most well known blue cheese in Spain. It is always wrapped in foil with the DOC logo. Cabrales cheese is produced in limited quantities, using traditional methods. Raw milk is used to produce it mixed with lactic and enzymatic coagulation techniques at low temperatures to process the cheese. The whey is drained naturally and then salting of the rind is done by hand. The cheese is then aired for 3-4 weeks in caves. The slow aging process continues with manual hand turning until the paste has become grown over with mold. This deep blue veining results in a thick texture and a creamy spicy flavor. The DO was established in 1981. Cabrales goes well with salami and full-bodied red wines. As a dessert it goes well with Amontillado and Oloroso Sherries. It is used in many recipes to enhance flavors in sauces and salads. Melted over meats or mixed with cream to make a spread this versatile cheese can be adapted to many uses.Roncal Cheese
This delicious cheese is made from sheep’s milk in the beautiful Valle del Roncal in Navarra. It is aged for at least 4 months, from cured to very old. It is made from the milk of the Laxta or Aragonese sheeps. It is a heavy cheese between 2 and 6 lbs. and has a fat content of 40-50%. This is a traditional artisan cheese with unwritten procedures and family secrets. It is traditionally cylindrical with a dark gray rind. Its flavor is acute and controlled, emitting a buttery taste and a dried fruit and mushroom aroma. Serve it with the local red Navarran wines from fabulous producers like Ochoa or Guelbenzu.Barcelona Gastronomic Dining Experience
Here's a recent dining experience here in Barcelona at Neichel...you might enjoy... Jean-Louis Neichel, of Barcelona's eponymous (Michelin starred) restaurant, has entrusted his 19-year old triplets to me for the summer. I met them, all three together, at Jean-Louis's restaurant the other night. They were like puppies...lightly mottled with a sprinkling of freckles and very short curly hair...and when they're all together you can't tell them apart at all...And what a dinner!!
Nine courses, flawlessly produced.....first a little aperitif of vichyssoise...with a dollop of sobrasada, asparagus with salicornia (sea asparagus), two spiky sea snails, and an aubergine chip...served with a lovely white Abadal white wine from Pla de Bages...a Picapoll grape producing a fresh and full-bodied, floral, fruity, and earthy brew...all at once......then a carpaccio de pato (fine-sliced duck) with white summer truffle from Huesca in the central Pyrenees...and a few peas and avocado slices and celery root on a tiny bed of sauerkraut...(aha - the Alsatian touch!) . Breads...perfect....whole wheat, black olive, walnut...
...then a lobster salad with a gamba de Palamós...fat-tailed bright red jumbo shrimp, more white truffle, and little morsels of salmon roe, green beans, baby fava beans, a lobster tartare -- raw lobster paste covered with salmon carpaccio...all in tiny portions, enough for a mouthful and a half...dill and chives spread around for aroma...and a little taste......and then...foie...duck liver, natch...with baby favas, peas, slender calçóts (long stemmed spring onions), more white truffle (he was clearly lavishing us with nuggets)...a crisp of something, potato, I think and a fine slice of bellota, acorn-fed Iberian ham...young garlic and a white asparagus..
Next up was merluza (hake), accompanied by aromatic and dark meadow mushrooms called moixernons --thus a subtle mar i muntanya combination-- chunks of lobster, a scallop, and slice of salmon, with a few tiny stalks of salicornia, sea asparagus, nicely salty.....and then espardenyes, the delicious sea slug endemic to the Costa Brava, so-named for its resemblance to the rope soles of espadrilles, or possibly because it was originally either thrown back into the sea or trampled underfoot in the bilges of the lateen-rigged fishing boats until someone discovered how aromatic and maritime they tasted...with more salicornia on a bed of sun-dried tomato...
The final adventure was the wood pigeon, red almost purple breast meat, with a side consisting of a single beet chip on chestnut purée and a tiny piece of broccoli and a chunk of apple......while the wine turned red in honor of the dark meat...continuing with the Abadal vineyard...a Tinto Reserva 1998...Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah...60%-30%-10% respectively...very Mediterranean, woodsy, fruity, earthy, spicey...
...and the cheese trolley...some 50 kinds of French and Spanish cheeses, of which we sampled an Alsatian Munster, a Pont l'Évêque from Normandie, a Saint Marcellin from just west of Grenoble, and a goat cheese from Aracena, in Spain's green and mountainous southwestern corner of Huelva.
Did you say dessert? Well, as a matter of fact...a lichi nut sorbet, a lemon mousse, a rhubarb coulis, and a black chocolate wafer followed by expresso...and...we were done...What a tour de force...
n all, over half a hundred different pristine ingredients served in discrete quantities, combined and balanced wisely with aromatic sauces, more natural juices than sauces...flavorful but exquisitely light...
The triplets have found a home...
